Tuesday, February 26, 2008

More Mayan and Volcanoes

Yesterday I went on a tour around the lake Atitlan to visit 3 of the many Mayan villages. Each of the village has its own flavor, some are more touristy than others. It was a nice relaxing day in the boat and walking around. There were more men in their traditional dress here than in Chichicastenago. I also met a Canadian that I saw in Juayua, El Salvador. He is going to staying around the lake for over a week. We had dinner together, although the dinner was the worst meal I had so far. The competition here for tourist money is fierce, so I guess the meal was too cheap to be good. I ended up getting 3 soft tacos from the same place as previous night to make up for the poor meal.

Today I caught a chicken bus to Xela, a suppose 2.5 hour ride turn into 4-hour ordeal due to constructions and what not. Xela is around 7700 feet and always has a volcano within walking distance. I signed up for an 7 hour hike (13 hours total including driving and hot spring) for tomorrow, and will try to go for a volcano hike on Thursday, but which volcano will depend on how many people want to climb the highest or not. I also looked into bus ride back east and to Rio Dulce. I decided I am going to bypass Antigua on the way back and go for a really long bus ride, which leaves here at 4AM! Hopefully with a 1st class bus and early start, we'll miss most of the construction delays. This will also give more one day ahead of the schedule, and may be two if I can't do the 2 day 1 night volcano climb. I'll likely add those days to Mexico as the Easter week is crazy in Latin America, one needs to reserve room month ahead of time.

As for town of Xela, there is not much as far sights in the city to see, it is good base to explore the surrounding lands. There is also lots Spanish schools and volunteers, and backpackers. No "real" tourists to speak of. Due to the high elevation it is pretty cool here, may be around 65F for the day time and of course pretty chilly at night. I think most of my bug bites are healing well, just in time when I go back into the low land jungles of Yucatan and real start of my visit to the Mayan ruins and cenotes.

Sunday, February 24, 2008

Glad to leave Antigua

This morning I was ready to leave the smoke choke city of Antigua. Despite its colonial history and ruins, its inhabitants (included gringos), over touristy, and bus exhausts just a bit too much for me. I think it is one of those place where if you never been there you got to see it, but never again.

I continue my journey into the western highland and home to many Mayan. I took a slow bus (but more comfortable than the chicken bus) to Panajachel the jumping off point for the volcanic lake Atitlan - surrounded by volcanoes just like that of Antigua. Since it was Sunday, I decided soon as I drop off my bag at the hotel I will go visit one of the largest Sunday market in nearby Chichicastenango. There were tons of tourists there already when I got there around 1PM. I took my time people watching, and dealt with a pushy boy trying to sell me dolls - I did cave-in in the end, but I think I got a good deal. I wonder the shops and overpaid for few other souvenirs. By 3, most of the tourists have gone, so I started my photography in earnest. Unfortunately, the Mayan people don't like to have their pictures taken (one lady even tell me not to take a photo of her textile items that were for sale). If they allow you to have photo, they usually demand you pay. So some of my photos are of sneaky in nature and therefore not well composed. Mayan women and kids (mostly girls) dressed in their traditional colorful cloth with some more modern accessories. But most of the man dress western/colonial Spanish style. Only the really old men I think dress traditionally.

Anyway, it was a good day despite the long and crowded chicken bus rides. And since they don't like their photos taken, I will post as many as possible :)

Tomorrow will be more at leisure, I am taking a boat tour around the lake and visit some of the villages.

BTW, the Mayan of Guatemala consists just over 50% of the country's total population.

Pacaya attempt #2

My 2nd attempt to climb Pacaya got off good start, the van did show up! All in all we have 7 total, 5 American and may be 2 from middle East, the group did not mingle. Anyway, one has the option of hiring a horse or walk up - of course I chose to hike - it was pretty easy hike where the path is wide and loose volcanic soil.

When we get to the active lava flow area, there were few hundred of people there already. The sun was still bright so it is hard to see the red lava from where we were. So we just followed everyone else and started to hike down toward the lava flow. Once we were there, one can see the red lava and feel the intense heat it generates. Some people brought marshmallow! Some places you walk over the actual lava flow, but where its out surface has cooled and harden. You can feel the burning heat as you walk over. The book mentioned sometime people had their shoes melted because they got too close. At the urge of my guide I manage to get close to one flow and post for a picture - I got out the heat as quickly as I can.

By the time we ready to get down, it was getting dark, but some people were just starting and some stay behind - to watch the night glow or pretty sunset may be.

One thing I found strange is that there were lots family that brought their very young kids. I saw one parent literally drag his son through the lava field!

This is my first time seeing active lava flow, it was very exciting yet at same time a bit scary not knowing if my next step might fall through or melt my shoes.